How to Spend a Weekend on Vis: A Slow Island Itinerary
There’s something special about Vis.
Maybe it’s the way time slows down here, or the feeling that you’ve arrived somewhere a little more secret, a little more sacred.
Once a Yugoslav military base, the island was closed off to foreigners until 1989, something you’ll quickly feel in the pace, the pride, and the purity of the place.
Vis isn’t showy. It doesn’t try to be trendy. But if you’re after slow mornings, long lunches, salty swims, and a real sense of place, this is your island.
Here’s how we’d spend a weekend on Vis.
Day One
Morning: Arrival and a Glass of Vugava
Take the morning ferry from Split and settle into island time. Once you’re checked in and ready, start your visit with something uniquely Vis: Vugava. This ancient white grape is grown exclusively here, and there’s no better place to taste it than Senjanović vina. Tucked into the hills just above Vis Town, this family-run winery pours honest, expressive wines.
Afternoon: Military Past, Island Views
If you’ve ever wondered what a secret island looks like, Vis has answers. Book a military tour for an afternoon of bunkers, missile bases, and coastal lookout points that tell the story of Yugoslavia’s closed off island. Highlights include Tito’s cave, submarine tunnels, and panoramic views from deep within the island’s rocky hills.
If you prefer to keep it coastal, grab a scooter or a car and wind your way toward the eastern beaches—Srebrna is a favourite for its soft white stones and clear entry into the sea.
Evening: Dinner at Golub
End your first day with a meal at Konoba Golub. Not far from Vis Town, this family-run spot is all about grilled fish, home-grown vegetables, and long, relaxed dinners. It’s the kind of place where you’ll overhear Croatian at the table next to you, where the wine is poured generously, and the views stretch across the sea.
Day Two
Morning: Stiniva and Beyond
Book a local boat tour to explore Vis from the sea. It’s how the island is best experienced. Most tours leave from Vis Town or Rukavac in the morning and will take you along the southern coast, stopping at coves, caves, and swimming spots along the way.
The highlight for us is Stiniva. Crowned the most beautiful cove in Europe by European Best Destinations, it’s framed by tall cliffs and a narrow opening that makes the sea look like it’s been poured into a pocket of stone. It gets crowded fast so your best chance to enjoy it is by arriving early with a skipper who knows how to beat the crowds.
If a boat tour isnt your thing, Stiniva is also accessible via a steep hike. Bring your water and sunscreen!
Midday: Komiža and Cukar Bakery
Many boat tours will time a stop in Komiža, the laid-back fishing town on the western side of the island. This is where Vis slows down even more. Walk the stone waterfront, peek into the fishermen’s museum if it’s open, and head straight for Cukar, a small bakery known for its fig and carob based cookies, lemony cakes, and traditional Vis sweets.
If your boat tour wraps up here, grab a taxi back to Vis Town—or better yet, stay for dinner.
Evening: Dinner in Komiža or One Last Swim
If you’re still in Komiža come evening, grab a seaside table for dinner. Many restaurants serve local favourites like fažol na brujet (a slow-cooked bean stew with fish) or grilled sardines with simple salads. If you’re after something truly unique, check out Konoba Jastožera. Its a lobster house perched on a wooden dock above the sea. Its not cheap but its worth the seafood and the experience.
Back in Vis Town? Take one last swim off the rocks by the Luka or Kut side before heading out for a low-key dinner and an early night. Check out Konoba Roki’s.
Vis isn’t about doing the most. It’s about doing what feels right in the moment: eating slowly, swimming often, and saying da to another glass of local wine. If you’re lucky enough to spend time here, you’ll leave wanting just one more day of solitude. And maybe that’s the best part.
